The Architecture of a Haircut and the Science of Texture

What makes a good haircut, great? It’s the first thing we stylists ask ourselves before we begin cutting and it happens in an alternate universe that only exists in the stylist's brain, which allows us to also consult with you in the very same moment we are designing the blueprint in our minds . After the initial consultation, and as we begin to map out the actual cutting, the wheels begin to spin as we reflect on these two points;

The Architecture of a Haircut (the shape that will be created affected by gravity, density, angles, tension + grip), and the Science of Texture (the shape that will be created affected by the natural texture of the hair, climate, amount of damage done by prior treatments, heat, and exposure to the elements).

There is so much that happens “behind the scenes” of a Haircut.

It starts with the education, training and apprenticeship a stylist will receive once enrolled in school, continuing into their entire career through advanced education, personal experience and mentorship.

Other things that formulate the overall experience of a visit to the salon are relationships, bonds of trust that are formed between stylist and client ( which I spoke about in another post) and a detail that I would like to get into with this post; the architecture of the Haircut. The design, the form that is sculpted around the face of the person sitting in front of us. The overall shape it will take on once it’s finished and how different it may look once the person leaves us to play with it on their own...through the vision of their own eyes and how they best see/feel themselves (which is something we always work with and also take into consideration while designing the look). The tools we choose to create a shape will depend on how “heavy” we want a line to be, or how soft we may want that line. The softer the line, the more volume you can achieve in the overall look because the hair will have more buoyancy with a softer edge on the “ends” This is where we may choose a razor to sculpt out the hair, or use our shears to incorporate a variety of techniques such as slide cutting, channel cutting, or deep point cutting. The heavier the line, or the more bluntly we cut the ends, the more we can achieve a stark, shaper look. This is where we would use shears. Think of the classic Vidal Sassoon five point bob.

How will gravity affect the shape/look of the design? Once more, using the proper tools to sculpt the hair, we leave it more blunt and heavy at the edges, or tapered and airy to achieve a lighter, flexible effect. How to sculpt the curls so as to not leave a “shelfy” disconnected look. How to sculpt ultra straight hair so as to not leave steps, to make sure it all blends seamlessly and softly. Leave it crisp and clean, perfectly asymmetrical or purposefully disconnected? Will there be many layers and if so, will they be squared, rounded, a combination of both? Held at 90 degrees to the round of the head creates a drastically different effect than holding the hair out to a 45 degree angle and cutting. Will we slide cut, or deep channel? 

Then there is the Science of texture. The overall feel, appearance, physical state and form of the hair that one is born with, and what they achieve or end up with after chemically altering the hair, or it being over exposed to the elements such as the sun, wind, salt which can influence the texture of the hair through its porosity (ability to hold or repel water/moisture and artificial color).The texture must be taken into consideration as a foundational assessment before creating a final shape. If the texture is too damaged the shape will not perform, for example.

All this in a nutshell are some of the “diagnostics” we use while creating your desired look. This also gives us a blueprint on how to choose and suggest the best products and treatments for  you to use.

We use products and treatments that are plant based and non toxic on your hair, skin and scalp. These formulations and products contain botanicals that are either  humectant and moisturizing in nature. They attract the moisture from the atmosphere, great for volume and curls. Perhaps a more astringent, “drier”, and smoothening in nature, or anti-humectant product is called for. These products repel the moisture in the atmosphere, great for sleeker looks and frizz control. SIDE NOTE: when I say astringent or drier I don’t mean they literally dry or astringe the hair, it means the properties of these products tend to seal the outer layer or cuticle of the hair leaving it sleek. ALL the products and botanicals we use are nourishing to the hair.

As always, we highly suggest (and are happy to have) a consultation prior to making a major change. It’s a complimentary service we offer and is the best way to decide together with your stylist on how to approach your desired result. We encourage that you have photos as a reference, as to make sure we are on the same page as terminology can be confusing sometimes.

So...what does the Season bring for you? Are you ready to approach something bold and new? Are you feeling comfort in a familiar favorite? Is there color in your future, or are you loving your beautiful grays? Shags, Mullets, Pixies, Bobs and everything in between...we are HERE for it!

The In-Between and the Beauty of Lemon Balm

This time of year always feels magical to me. That energy of summer coming to an end and the Fall approaching slowly. It’s harvesting season. Time to gather what has been sown and nurtured, and to savor it in the upcoming nesting season.

As a child, this time of year was filled with excitement to start a new school year. To see friends I hadn’t seen all summer, compare stories...plan for Halloween! 

When I lived in Italy through my 20”s and 30’s I would always come home to RI for the month of August to spend time with friends and family. It always felt bittersweet as the first days of September arrived, that same energy I used to feel as a kid would be there. Only in this timeframe of my life I was eager to return to seeing friends back in Italy which at the time was home for me, but it was really hard to leave the family and friends I had back here not knowing if the next visit would be sooner than the usual one per year period.

Although the past year and half has been a super heavy one for so many reasons and for so many of us, I will say that I still feel that energy. That eager energy to start fresh, to enjoy the friuts of all that was planted and grown over Spring and Summer. The crisp energy that accompanies the Fall, and in a way a fresh start. The farm is looking great, and we have so many amazing things ahead for the Apothecary and Salon!

Some of the plants we will be working with are Tulsi, Ginger, Mallow, a wide variety of Mints (including Sage), Chamomile, Violets, Angelica and many more herbs. These plants have been infused in many different “menstrums” and forms and will be used in a range of nurturing services. Some of these plants have warming qualities to them while others have more cooling qualities. Some are astringent in nature, while others are hydrating or moistening in their nature. Either way, we will use them in a variety of nourishing and supportive ways. It’s exciting to think about and plan all of this! I will share some info on one of these amazing plants that for me speaks of summer sun medicine, and is also a great ally for the times at the bottom of this post.

I really hope that this year ahead will be a grounding one for all of us. We surely will be here to try and provide the support needed, especially as our Apothecary grows. What we are growing at the farm is such a big part of that. We will continue to formulate, blend, and mix special potions for you all. We will also continue to use the space as a gallery for our local and oh so many talented artists. We are also hoping that by Spring, we can bring live music back...even if it’s outdoors! This is the energy that I feel right now...the same as I felt as a child during this in between….A sense of excitement and hope, regardless of the obstacles we have learned to navigate around. 

So with all that, I leave you with the Beauty of Lemon Balm ( Melissa officinalis).

Lemon Balm originated in central and southern Europe, the Mediterranean, Iran, and central Asia. It has since naturalized throughout the world. It’s use dates back over 2000 years. It has been used in medicine, food, skincare, and perfumery. It is especially important for pollinating insects including many kinds of bees.

During the Middle Ages, lemon balm was noted by herbalists, philosophers, and scientists. It was thought to be restorative and promote vitality while also helping to improve mood.

Ancient Herbalists such as Avicenna described it by saying “It makes the Heart merry” and in modern Herbalism it is still used to support anxiety, depression and insomnia.

The list of medicinal usage and properties of lemon balm is extensive. Melissa officinalis is reported to possess sedative, antistress, anti-anxiety, and mood-enhancing abilities. It was also found to ease digestion, nausea, sleep disorders, depression, and headaches, among many others. The use of lemon balm as complementary and herbal medicine continues to the present day.

Folklore says that the fragrant balm was used in baths to attract love, and its planetary ruler is said to be Venus. It was used in many ancient cultures to attract love and success into one’s life.

For me, the bright and citrusy sweet fragrance of Lemon Balm speaks to Heart center and inspires happiness, calm and reassurance. It’s flavor is delicious on it’s own and blends well with many other herbs in the Mint family, or in the Nervine category to create a more indicated blend for a person’s specific needs keeping their constitution and tissue states in mind.

It’s also AMAZING to use infused oils, both edible and  for topical use on its own or as part of a blend or base for salves and creams. Tinctured, it makes a great base for a citrusy inspired perfume, or as a lovely medicine when you want something a little more potent than a cup of  herbal tea (which if steeped long enough can also be quite potent).

Sources-

The Lost Herbs - Nicole Apelian

Cunningham, S. Encyclopedia of Magical Herbs

Beyerl, Beyerl, P.  The Master Book of Herbalism

The Farm

The Farm

As most of you know and some are discovering, I, Jo-Anna, Owner/Stylist/Herbalist of Flipp am also the Herbalist in residence at Shewatuck Farm in Exeter R.I.

Shewatuck is a 91 acre Farm Incubator which in essence means they provide education and skills to food producing farmers and food processor entrepreneurs so that they may become economically and environmentally self-sufficient. This also includes myself, being the farmer for the medicinal Herb gardens which will be used to educate folks through various workshops and classes I will hold, and also gives me the opportunity to grow the plants that will be used for a variety of services and products in our Apothecary at the salon. Everything from tea blends, to extracts used in treatments for the scalp, skin and hair, to the ingredients that go into the formulations for my line Botanic providence. 

As part of an expansion in what our Apothecary offers there will also be plant/ potted herb sales, and a CSA share pickup at Flipp for anyone interested in the PVD area.

As an Herbalist, it has been a great honor to actually start these wonderful allies from seed, work with them in the nursery, size up the baby plants, and eventually plant them into the Earth. Getting to know the plants from all of their “elemental” , “energetic” and physical/chemical attributes and qualities. We are a Biodynamic farm, have a Mushroom grove and an Apiary. Each of the Farmers involved brings a unique experience to the collective, and together we are creating some wonderful things.

It’s excruciatingly hard work at times, but so incredibly rewarding to have the opportunity to learn and observe the cycles and various ecosystems as they unfold in every little microcosm of cultivating life in the plant kingdom, and learn what it means to truly be a good steward to our Mother Earth. 

As this journey unfolds, I am eager to share and take you along, whether it be through updates in newsletters, blog posts here, farm tours and more. Each Season has it’s magic, energy, and color in those fields, in the greenhouse and plant nursery. Each Season has it’s harvest and with it the wonderful opportunities to learn and become akin to the gifts our Mother Earth provides for us.

Please check out our quick video tour of the farm, below.

The Beauty of Violets

The Beauty of Violets

There is something quite magical in seeing a lawn or meadow covered in Violets. It's one of the reassuring signs that Spring is upon us. It is the flower of our home State of Rhode Island. The color is soothing, a “signature” in the natural world that harkens to the Crown Chakra in Ayurveda, relating to the brain, pineal gland and endocrine gland. Other “signatures” or associations of purple flowers are that they are associated with mental and psychological well being, spirituality, the sacred, the higher self, mental tranquility and soothing properties. Think Lavender. 

Violets also manifest their “signatures'' in their chemical constituents and vital energetics (cooling, moistening) through preparing them in a variety of ways. You can also see these properties reflected in the habitat where they like to grow; in moist damp soil, part sun, part shade. They are great for making syrups for dry cough, or as a tonic for dry atrophic tissue states (dry, hot, and irritated tissues in the body). They can also be paired with other herbs such as marshmallow root, leaf and flower in a cold infusion for extra soothing support due to the mucilaginous qualities of these plants. 

Violets are also a stunning addition to food, cakes and beverages. Super high in Vitamin C, A and many other minerals, they are a lovely way to feed the eye and the spirit as well as the body. They are great addition to cocktails + mocktails in the form of ice cubes, garnishes, or my favorite way, in the form of glycerites which I use both internally and as part of cosmetic formulation.

Their fragrance is as soft and pretty as they are. Very powdery like Iris, due to a compound called Ionone. Ionones are both naturally occurring and synthesized in a lab. The synthetic version is used in mainstream perfumery to create vintage inspired “powdery” scented perfumes.  Natural perfumers have to work a little harder to create these types of fragrances as you need a huge amount of Violets to yield enough of the Ioanone, and it is a compound with a fleeting scent on it’s own...gone very quickly, so Artisan perfumers who use botanicals to formulate have to get really creative by blending other plant compounds along with the natural Ionone to create that soft, round ,powdery scent in a way that won’t evaporate quickly.

The ancient Greeks thought of Violets as a symbol of fertility and love, and it’s no coincidence that in Medical Astrology the Planetary ruler of Violets is Venus.

Cosmetically, they are AMAZING for the skin! Soothing, moistening, they are  great in creams, oils and balms for very dry skin and eczema as they have a wonderful ability to modulate inflammation. Keep an eye out for it in our Apothecary as it will be featured in some of our seasonal products. 

So, this Spring, pay a little more attention to these little beauties! Remember and honor them for their long history, lore and multiple modern day usage for so many things that support our senses and well being! The Sweet and humble little violets that are the super pretty icing on our lawns, meadows and fields.

The Depth of Beauty

The subject of “Beauty” has been one of much controversy over the centuries. Going back to times when comprehensive verbal language hadn’t been invented yet, it is thought that physical attraction to another was steeped in instinct to procreate and keep our species alive. As we evolved, a shadow of those instincts probably live somewhere in our DNA, but it’s really not at the forefront. Rather, the idea of Beauty has become a more superficial and what is considered beautiful is both a concept different to each individual and at the same a concept used to start and sell trends that are targeted to appeal en mass. It certainly has been and is an interesting evolution to behold.

Beauty is synonymous with mystery in it’s poetic form. Beautiful landscapes, colors, textures inspire us to create, to draw, paint, write or to wander. Seeing something we consider to be beautiful stimulates endorphins, makes us feel happy, makes us smile. It has moved Kings and Queens, inspired poetry, music...makes us literally stop to smell the beautiful roses. Beauty is all around us, and within us.

As I say often, everything in existence has its shadow aspect, and it’s light aspect. The imbalance of these aspects is usually the root cause of some sort of “excess” or “deficiency”. The concept of “Beauty” is no different.

In it’s shadow aspect, it is used to manipulate, even to fool. The Italian word for “make-up” is Trucco (which means Trick). When we adorn ourselves for the sake of “capturing” others, this can be either fun and flirty, or not. The shadow side of this would be to hold yourself up to another’s standard of what they see as beauty. Conforming to another’s ideals, and feeling inadequate or not enough if you don’t. Believing that somehow you are inferior to someone or something else based upon a standard born in the superficial. Believing that Beauty is “skin deep” and purely physical, or one dimensional. We go at great lengths as a culture to harm ourselves psychologically when we take this path. Thankfully, those old ideals are ever dying with evolution, and we are finally starting to redefine beauty once again.

Self adornment in it’s light aspect is fun, carefree and a mode of self expression.

Folks in all cultures have and do use color, costume, aroma to invoke a sensation or express feeling/belief and communicate through ritual. This could also be as simple as a night out with friends, or on a first date. Choosing to “wear” your thoughts, feelings, and to express yourself visually. We do this every day and are probably not even aware of it. Even if you do nothing, you still speak to who you are at the moment, and there is nothing wrong or bad...again, it’s either shadow or light, or perhaps a mutable in between. The important piece is the awareness that YOU get to CHOOSE.

The way I (We see it)

I see Beauty as a feeling. I see it as the outer form of inner expression. I believe that each and every person can be their own “influencer” and feel joy in knowing that they are beautiful from the spark that made them (deep and introspective cosmic energy) to the way they decide to “paint” themselves, wear certain fabrics and shapes, and the way they wear their hair ( fun and playful energy). Although trends can give a little new spice to things, I am more apt to say JUST BE YOU. 

Again, the shadow side is holding oneself to a dictated standard, the lighter side is freedom of expression in all you do, even in the form of self adornment, and the joy of saying to the world ”this is who I am”...because YOU get to decide. Beauty isn’t some superficial standard, it’s what inspires us to dream. It comes from within, and radiates outward. The adornments are the icing, and they can look or be however and whatever you choose.

As an Herbalist, I also see how this form of self expression/transformation and self awareness follows the same process of the seven steps in Alchemy, with the difference being it is a shared experience instead of the Alchemist alone performing/creating the transformation. After all, I do see everything “As above, So below”, What happens in the Macrocosm also plays out in the Microcosm...same patterns, so of course I can see this Alchemical pattern as far as the subjects of Beauty + Self awareness are concerned. 

A perfect plant ally for this very subject is Horsetail. This plant contains more Silica than any other plant on Earth. Silica strengthens the hair and nails, is great for the skin as it’s also a diuretic and supports clearing stagnation through the kidneys. It’s great for the bones, teeth, ligaments and tendons (representing our foundational structure), therefore can be seen as an ally for maintaining healthy boundaries, re-enforcing the courage to BE YOU. This beautiful plant extract is in a few of the products we use on you when you come to see us.<3

We hope to be the artists/alchemists to bring it out of you...the final stage of your alchemical process, your inner essence to manifest outward and of course we will strive to make it joyful and most of all, FUN!